Granger, IN Water Heater Not Heating? 5 Fixes from Plumbers

Estimated Read Time: 9 minutes

No hot water is frustrating, especially when guests are in town or mornings are busy. If your water heater is not heating, this guide explains the most common causes, safe DIY checks, and when to call a pro. You will learn fast fixes, prevention tips, and how to avoid repeat breakdowns. Bonus: current local specials to help you save on maintenance and upgrades.

Quick Safety First

Before you start troubleshooting a unit that is not heating, put safety first.

• Turn the power off at the breaker for electric units.
• Set gas control to Off and wait for lingering gas to clear for gas units.
• Close the cold‑water supply valve if you find active leaks.
• Do not cap or tamper with the temperature‑pressure relief valve.

Two important facts to know:

1. A typical T&P valve opens around 150 psi or near 210°F to prevent dangerous pressure build‑up.
2. Many homes in Elkhart County have hard water, which accelerates sediment buildup and anode rod wear.

If you smell gas, hear hissing, or see scorching, stop and call Summers at (574) 367-8549.

Reason 1: Tripped Breaker or Power/Gas Supply Issue

Loss of power or fuel is the simplest reason a water heater is not heating.

• Electric: Check the breaker panel. Reset a tripped breaker fully Off, then On. Inspect the dedicated disconnect near the heater.
• Gas: Verify the gas valve is open and the control is in On or Pilot. If the pilot is out, relight only if the manufacturer’s instructions are on the unit and you are comfortable.
• For tankless: Confirm the power plug and switch are on. Many models will not fire without 120V power.

How to fix:

1. Reset breakers and verify GFCI outlets near the unit are not tripped.
2. For gas, confirm other gas appliances work. If not, call the utility.
3. If the pilot will not stay lit, stop and call a pro. A bad thermocouple or gas control could be the culprit.

When to call Summers:

• Breakers trip again after reset.
• You smell gas or the pilot assembly looks damaged.
• Tankless unit shows error codes you cannot clear.

Reason 2: Thermostat or Heating Element Failure (Electric)

Electric heaters use upper and lower thermostats and elements. If the upper element fails, you get no hot water. If the lower fails, you get a short supply.

Signs:

• Completely cold water points to the upper element or thermostat.
• Brief hot then cold suggests a lower element issue.

How to fix safely:

1. Turn off power at the breaker and verify with a non‑contact tester.
2. Remove access panels and insulation to reach thermostats and elements.
3. Use a multimeter to check continuity on elements. Replace bad parts with manufacturer‑approved components.
4. Set thermostats to 120°F for safety and efficiency.

Pro advantage:

• We carry OEM‑quality parts on fully stocked trucks.
• We test wiring, tighten connections, and verify amperage draw, which prevents repeat failures.

Reason 3: Pilot, Igniter, or Gas Control Problems (Gas)

Gas water heaters rely on a steady flame or electronic ignition. If your water heater is not heating, the pilot system may be at fault.

Common causes:

• Dirty flame sensor or thermocouple.
• Weak igniter on newer electronic systems.
• Clogged air intake or flue issues.
• Faulty gas control valve.

How to fix:

1. Confirm fresh air to the utility room. Vacuum dust from air intakes and the burner compartment.
2. If the pilot will not stay lit, the thermocouple may be failing. Replacing it requires correct bending and tightening to manufacturer specs.
3. For electronic ignition, igniter resistance testing is recommended before replacement.

Call for help if:

• You see soot, scorch marks, or smell gas.
• The pilot assembly is damaged or corroded.
• The burner lights but the flame is weak or yellow.

Reason 4: Sediment Buildup Reducing Heat Transfer

Hard water leaves mineral scale in tanks and heat exchangers. Sediment blankets the bottom of a tank, causing popping or rumbling as trapped water flashes to steam. This reduces heating efficiency and can overheat lower elements.

Symptoms:

• Noisy operation, longer heat‑up times, or lukewarm water.
• Frequent element failure in electric units.
• For tankless, error codes for flow or overheating.

How to fix:

1. Tank models: Drain and flush annually. Attach a hose to the drain valve, turn power or gas off, isolate water, open the drain and T&P valve lever carefully to vent. Flush until clear.
2. Tankless: Flush with a pump and manufacturer‑approved descaling solution, typically 45 to 60 minutes, then rinse.
3. Replace worn anode rods every 3 to 5 years in hard‑water areas to slow corrosion.

Why preventative service wins:

• Restores efficiency and consistent hot water.
• Protects your tank, elements, or heat exchanger.
• Low‑cost service compared to premature replacement.

Reason 5: Dip Tube, Check Valve, or Cross‑Connection Issues

When cold water mixes with hot on the hot side, the water heater may not heat as expected even though it fires correctly.

Causes:

• Broken dip tube allows cold water to short‑circuit to the hot outlet.
• Faulty single‑handle shower cartridges allow cross‑flow between hot and cold.
• Missing or stuck check valves in recirculation loops.

How to fix:

1. Test at multiple fixtures. If only one shower is lukewarm, the issue is likely a mixing valve there.
2. If the whole home is affected, the dip tube or a recirc check valve is suspect.
3. Replacing a dip tube is a moderate repair that involves depressurizing, disconnecting the cold inlet, and fitting the correct part.

Call Summers if you suspect cross‑connection. We isolate zones, test cartridges, and verify proper flow with calibrated thermometers.

When Repair Is Not the Best Choice

Sometimes replacement saves money and frustration.

Consider replacement when:

1. Age: Tanks over 10 years and tankless over 20 years are near end of life.
2. Frequent repairs: Two or more major fixes in 18 months add up.
3. Rusty tank or leaks: A corroded tank cannot be repaired safely.
4. Capacity mismatch: Growing families or new soaker tubs need more hot water.

Upgrade options:

• High‑efficiency tanks with better insulation reduce standby losses.
• Tankless models heat on demand, offer nearly endless hot water, save space, and often last twice as long as tanks.

Local insight: Homes in South Bend, Mishawaka, and Elkhart often benefit from a whole‑home filter or softener to cut down scale on both tank and tankless units.

DIY vs Professional: How to Decide

Great candidates for DIY:

• Resetting breakers or GFCI outlets.
• Relighting a pilot using the printed instructions if you are comfortable and there is no gas smell.
• Cleaning simple air intakes and replacing accessible thermostats or elements if you can test safely.

Call a pro for:

• Gas smells, scorch marks, or soot.
• Repeated breaker trips, melted wiring, or corrosion on terminals.
• Persistent lukewarm water after element or thermostat replacement.
• Tankless error codes and descaling if you do not have pumps and valves.

What Summers brings:

• 24/7 emergency response and same‑day installs when possible.
• Licensed, insured technicians with over 40 years of local experience.
• Upfront pricing, free second opinions, and fully stocked trucks to finish most jobs in one visit.

Preventative Maintenance That Actually Works

A small investment in maintenance keeps hot water steady and safe.

• Annual inspection: Verify combustion, electrical connections, and safety controls.
• T&P valve test: Replace if it sticks or drips under test.
• Flush tanks: Remove sediment to quiet operation and restore efficiency.
• Descale tankless: Protect the heat exchanger and reduce error codes.
• Insulate hot water pipes: Save energy and reduce wait times.
• Anode rod check: Replace before it is fully consumed, especially with hard water.

During scheduled maintenance, if problems are found, your technician will explain options, provide an estimate, and can start work immediately with your approval.

Service Area and Fast Scheduling

We serve South Bend, Elkhart, Mishawaka, Goshen, Granger, Notre Dame, Middlebury, Osceola, Bristol, and New Paris. Whether your water heater is not heating at all or just underperforming, we can help today. Call (574) 367-8549 or visit https://summersphc.com/elkhart/ to schedule.

Special Offers to Fix or Upgrade Your Hot Water

• Water Heater Flush + Plumbing Inspection for $59. This month only. Call to redeem.
• $59 water heater safety inspection. Must present coupon at time of service and schedule by 11/30/25. Not combinable with other offers.
• $500 off tankless water heater installation. Must present coupon at time of service and schedule by 11/30/25. Not combinable with other offers.
• $200 off your tankless water heater purchase this month only.

Save now and restore reliable hot water. Call (574) 367-8549 or book at https://summersphc.com/elkhart/.

What Homeowners Are Saying

"With guest from out of town, I needed quick service for my water heater. It was done promptly and orofessionally"
–Julie D., Water Heater Service

"Was absolutely shocked by the service ... I decided to get the monthly service plan when I realized the money I would save and that it would include a year air conditioning/furnace checkup, water heater drain and who house plumbing checkup! ... Summers has my plumbing business from now on"
–Karen L., Plumbing Plan Member

"Originally I had to reschedule this appointment, they handled it with no problem. Travis arrived early, provided a thorough and easy to understand quote, and got the job done quickly and safely. Outstanding service and I have found my go-to!"
–Steve L., Water Heater Service

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is my water heater not heating after a power outage?

If a breaker tripped during the outage, the elements never re‑energized. Reset the breaker fully Off then On, check GFCIs, and verify the thermostat is set to 120°F. If it trips again, call a pro.

How often should I flush my water heater in northern Indiana?

Once a year for tank models. In hard‑water areas like Elkhart and Mishawaka, consider every 6 to 9 months. Tankless models should be descaled annually or as indicated by the manufacturer.

Is 120°F hot enough for my water heater?

Yes for most homes. It balances comfort, energy savings, and safety. Higher temperatures raise scald risk and can increase mineral scaling in hard‑water regions.

What does a T&P valve do?

It relieves pressure and temperature if the tank overheats or pressure exceeds limits. Most valves open near 150 psi or around 210°F. Never cap or plug this valve.

Should I repair or replace a 12‑year‑old tank?

If it is leaking or needs major parts, replacement is usually smarter. New efficient tanks or tankless units offer lower energy costs and better performance over time.

Bottom Line

When your water heater is not heating, start with safe checks for power, gas, and resets, then look at thermostats, ignition, sediment, and mixing issues. Regular maintenance prevents most failures and keeps hot water steady in Elkhart and South Bend homes. If you need help today, we are ready 24/7 with upfront pricing and fully stocked trucks.

Ready for Reliable Hot Water?

Call Summers Plumbing Heating & Cooling at (574) 367-8549 or schedule at https://summersphc.com/elkhart/. Mention the $59 Flush + Inspection or $500 Off Tankless Installation offers. Book now to restore hot water fast with licensed, insured pros.

About Summers Plumbing Heating & Cooling

For over 40 years, Summers Plumbing Heating & Cooling has served homeowners across Elkhart, South Bend, Mishawaka, and nearby communities. Our licensed, insured plumbers arrive in fully stocked trucks, provide upfront pricing, and back work with a 100% satisfaction guarantee. We offer 24/7 emergency service, free second opinions, and flexible financing. From traditional tanks to high‑efficiency tankless systems, we install, repair, and maintain water heaters with care and compliance.